Methods of Production

After reading The Designers Atlas of Sustainability the example of a pair of jeans for Design is Unstructuring stuck with me. I never understood the magnitude of mass production for a pair of jeans. Seven different countries were involved in producing one specific pair of jeans. This doesn't include the stores and distributors that purchase this item which will inevitably end up in a landfill or down cycled. Down cycling is when a new product is created from old or unusable material and is worth less than the original price of the old product. How counter productive is that! I can't help wonder what companies understand enough about the environment to be sustainable and successful.

William McDonough and Michael Braungert came up with the logical idea of Waste=Food, Cradle to Cradle or eliminating the concept of waste. Basically, a paradigm shift from eco-efficient design that focuses primarily on using less materials. Would become design that re-imagines products that use less material and contribute to the well being of people and the ecosystem.  There idea is to fix products so they can be used in a cycle again and again otherwise known as up cycling. Up cycling is creating new products that are worth as much or more than the original product. That sounds much more productive. All products can be separated into two categories, biological nutrients which safely returns materials such as air, water, and organic cotton that focus on products for consumption. Or technical nutrients which recaptures product in cycle and focuses on product of service, no sacrifice of quality for the new product. A small Swiss factory decided to implement McDonough and Braungarts protocol both biological and technical with there products. It was a perfect location because the main chemical titan at the time was located in Switzerland. This on-site production will reduce costs and make it easier for communication. The textile company tested thousands of chemicals that have been used for dyeing there clothes for years. Only sixteen dyes met the McDonough and Braungert protocol that is safe for both humans and the environment. With these sixteen dyes any color can be produced at a competitive price. Profits increased, the health and safety of there workers increased, and the customers were happy. 

There influence started the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) Restricted substance list as well as the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). AAFAs mission is to "promote and enhance its members competitiveness, productivity, and profitability in the global market by minimizing regulatory, commercial, political, and trade restraints." These regulations and laws are used to find the chemicals that are banned in home textile, footwear, and apparel products all over the world. Before a designer buys from a wholesaler they should read what chemical were used in the products that are interested in buying. GOTS is used for defining the prohibited and restricted inputs used in all textile products. It is important to understand that non-fabric materials such as leather, skin, hide, or rubber are not included in this standard. Also, products can only be deemed organic as a whole item not parts of the design. As wonderful as all of these standards, rules, and protocols are it is difficult to have every spectrum of the design team on board. Producers, wholesalers, retailers, and consumers all have to make a conscious effort to use Cradle to Cradle methods. I did a little research because I was unsure of products I personally use that know of the Cradle to Cradle movement and if they can be mass produced like the blue jeans mentioned earlier. 

I found that twenty of Method cleaning products have earned the Cradle to Cradle (C2C) certification which is a step towards increasing C2C products to the consumer nationwide. C2C certification has been focused on insulation. carpeting, chairs, and whiteboards but nothing has been specific for customers. With the variety of dish soap, hand wash, and foaming hand wash Method is breaking into a market specifically aimed for the consumers. Since being founded in 2000 method has been selling home and personal cleaning products that focus on biodegradable and non-toxic ingredients. All of the materials inside the products are listed on the website and they list ingredients names and explain what they do in some cases. That way consumers are completely aware of what they are buying and how it directly affects the environment. They also have began to use money to help there suppliers invest in energy efficient equipment and on-site renewable energy systems. Just like the Swiss chemical company teamed up with the local textile factory. In order for these protocols to be used in all merchandise local businesses need to team up. The success stories come from businesses that cooperate with one another towards the same goal. Consumers are more likely to support a local owner than a faceless corporation, with publicity the C2C movement can be globally accepted. If waste equals food is used efficiently there will be no regulation between trading companies which will eliminate the cut throat low-priced, low-quality debacle mentioned in my previous blog. Also if there is no regulation the free trade will create equal opportunities for local designers to be more profitable and boost the crippling economy. Just like the consumer needs to be educated in there purchases so does the retailer and producer. If products are being created economically from the beginning consumers are more willing to purchase. They need to use tools like AFFA and GOTS or strive to be certified by the C2C foundation.