Final Blog

The past few weeks have been eye opening for me. I new the basics for sustainability but this course has taught me in depth ideas and rules that a company must follow in order to be successful. The most important thing I learned this week was how many countries are beginning to acknowledge the change from the industrial revolution to sustainable practices today. It gave me hope to learn that huge corporations and important government officials were meeting and discussing there ideas on how to transform businesses into eco-friendly producers. All of this learning was useful to me because I hope to become apart of a design or merchandising team that possess all of these sustainable ideals. Having trustworthy and quality products being created for consumers; who know they are buying a product that does not harm the environment or other people is what all companies should strive for. I've always wanted to make a difference in the world and I believe that sustainable practice is the new frontier for innovation. These three weeks have educated me in my purchases and future job searches. I've become conscious of local businesses and sustainable merchandise through my research and will continue to educate myself in eco-friendly suppliers and designers. I will always want to learn about the different methods of providing sustainable and cost-efficient products to consumers. As well as ways that companies can publicize there certifications for being an environmentally sustainable corporation. The forums and meeting I discussed in my most recent blog have caught my attention. I am curious to see how America and the world is going to work cooperatively with one another in order to provide fair trade, quality products, cost efficiency, and sustainable merchandise to consumers. Hopefully with time fair trade and eco-friendly practices will become the norm for all businesses.

One Love, One Heart.

The things that really have value such as human life, culture passed down from your elders, or friendship cannot be priced. What was mentioned throughout the economic and cultural text in The Designers Atlas of Sustainability was the influence of Nature in the economy as well as culture. I also found articles that discussed strategies in the apparel field that scrutinize and implement sustainable methods for there business.

I personally believe there is no better sound than the ocean waves crashing on a beach. I could live forever reading a book and lying underneath the sun. There are few places now that you can really enjoy nature. Commercialism has transformed local beaches in to multi-million dollar hotels and condos. These are filled with tourists who do not care about the preservation of the beach they long to vacation to. 

Faceless corporations fill these shores with shops and restaurants that put the locals out of business. According to the economy section nature’s services are estimated to be worth 36 trillion dollars annually. Our market counts this money as “free” because they don’t pay for them. We have to stop considering nature as invaluable. The economy is based on debts paid back with interest, if the economy does not expand to the money required for interest the system collapses. This is a major problem for designers in all cultures. Unless something has a price than we all perceive it as having no value. This makes using sustainable products more expensive due to the extra time and money needed to create them. Culturally we live in a world that focuses of efficiency and low price. We want an item now! Designers are forced to think short-term in order to stay afloat. Our current approach of zero price means zero value is difficult for sustainable practices to ensue. As stated in the Cultural section “We need to rethink our connection to nature- the way in which nature is in fact part of culture as it shapes us on a psychological as well as a physical level” (170). Seeing this pollution happen as recent as 2011 in this video shows the affects of our actions. If individuals walked on an untouched beach they’d be less likely to invade it with tourists and pollution.We have to accept that humans have destroyed nature over the centuries but there is still time to restore and maintain what is left. Nature, culture, and the economy are all interrelated. We have one planet to live on and must learn to share and preserve it.

In the OSU archives I found a Women’s Wear Daily story that illuminated the first Sustainable Fashion Forum meeting; which coincides with changing strategies in companies toward sustainability. Bruce Bergstrom is the VP of Li & Fung and was a speaker at the meeting. He said that sustainability is a focus for vendors and retailers but “It’s a great concept, like liberty or justice, but difficult to define.” He believes that sustainability has three factors economic, social, and environmental. The focus needs to be aligning sustainability into business plans or “woven into the organizations fabric”. The entire conference understood that no one could obtain a successful and sustainable business alone. You need compliance with shareholders, supply chains, academia, producers, and designers. This Forum meeting led to the textile trade show in Asia to dedicate two days of seminars to sustainability in the textile industry. The Asia Pacific manager for Control Union Hong Lee said implementing sustainability is coming from retail  “The retailers and brands are pushing the manufacturers to get certification however, brands need to show the manufacturers that they can save money in the long run.” Making profits and being sustainable is the ideal business plan.

Carolina Rubiasih is CP of sourcing and product development for The Sak, which is the supplier for handbags to retailers across the United States. The company is implementing as many sustainable protocols as possible. Fully aware that they cannot pass the extra cost associated with sustainable product to there consumers. The company cuts costs by having tight inventory control, improving design to reduce waste, reducing packaging, maximizing container loads, and paying attention to taxes and tariffs. I decided to Google The Sak more closely and found that their philosophy is “happy & free, peace and harmony among all things is interwoven onto our spirit, our deep rooted heritage and our down-to-earth style.” Rubiasih advice for all fashion designers is to produce only what you can sell, improve designs to reduce waste, use less packaging, increase efficiently, and study tariff regulations for all countries. She implements her advice stated during the Fashion Forum conference and her company outperformed her previous years revenue. Environmental and ethical concerns are becoming a greater priority among companies.

It has been discussed both online and in the text that sustainable practices come down to bottom-lines. Businesses focus on risk aversion and protecting their brands. They want to decrease cost and time while still maintaining sustainable products. Thankfully, there are companies out there that focus on businesses becoming sustainably sound. DNV is an independent business whose purpose is to safeguard life, property, and the environment. They focus on risk management and business assurance or providing responsibility for any company that asks for their assistance. There vision is a global impact for a safe and sustainable future they have operated in over 100 countries and have 300 offices employing nearly 9,000 individuals who strive for fair trade and sustainable production.

I think as students we are to recognize that sustainable business is something that will take time. It is our job to urge the brands, retailers, buyers and suppliers to make small adjustments towards sustainability. One answer cannot solve this complex and multi-faceted issue. Finding a solution will require a collaborative effort in all spectrums of fashion and design. As spoken at the fashion Forum, Designer atlas for Sustainability and in the DNV research improvements in education, innovation, technology and government policies will make sustainable fashion possible and inevitably profitable.

Week 2 Reflection

After pondering this weeks assignment I think the most important thing I learned was that Method products were C2C certified. It was comforting to discover that my personal products are eco-friendly and easily available for purchased. It's a daily reminder of how simple it is to be good to the environment. This week was useful and relevant to me because I am becoming more aware of the products I purchase and the chemical I use. I now only use Method soap and dish soap and am beginning to find used furniture for my new apartment next year. Hopefully, with last weeks knowledge and the future weeks to come I will look for C2C certification or other merchandisers that apply the economically friendly protocols. Knowing that eco-friendly products are not as difficult to come buy as I suspected I want to learn more about what businesses are using up-cycling or waste=food steps. The fact that Target, Lowes, and other companies that carry C2C certified products really bothered me. Having eco-friendly sets yourself apart from competitors which makes you unique and offers something new, consumers want new. With further research I would like to understand why these corporations have not included these facts in there commercials or any promotions. It is important that my future career gives back to the community so I will also begin to research potential internships and jobs that are relevant to my Apparel Merchandising major as well as uphold the ideals that McDonough and Braungart are so passionate about. It takes a few significant details to make a job your own.

Methods of Production

After reading The Designers Atlas of Sustainability the example of a pair of jeans for Design is Unstructuring stuck with me. I never understood the magnitude of mass production for a pair of jeans. Seven different countries were involved in producing one specific pair of jeans. This doesn't include the stores and distributors that purchase this item which will inevitably end up in a landfill or down cycled. Down cycling is when a new product is created from old or unusable material and is worth less than the original price of the old product. How counter productive is that! I can't help wonder what companies understand enough about the environment to be sustainable and successful.

William McDonough and Michael Braungert came up with the logical idea of Waste=Food, Cradle to Cradle or eliminating the concept of waste. Basically, a paradigm shift from eco-efficient design that focuses primarily on using less materials. Would become design that re-imagines products that use less material and contribute to the well being of people and the ecosystem.  There idea is to fix products so they can be used in a cycle again and again otherwise known as up cycling. Up cycling is creating new products that are worth as much or more than the original product. That sounds much more productive. All products can be separated into two categories, biological nutrients which safely returns materials such as air, water, and organic cotton that focus on products for consumption. Or technical nutrients which recaptures product in cycle and focuses on product of service, no sacrifice of quality for the new product. A small Swiss factory decided to implement McDonough and Braungarts protocol both biological and technical with there products. It was a perfect location because the main chemical titan at the time was located in Switzerland. This on-site production will reduce costs and make it easier for communication. The textile company tested thousands of chemicals that have been used for dyeing there clothes for years. Only sixteen dyes met the McDonough and Braungert protocol that is safe for both humans and the environment. With these sixteen dyes any color can be produced at a competitive price. Profits increased, the health and safety of there workers increased, and the customers were happy. 

There influence started the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) Restricted substance list as well as the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). AAFAs mission is to "promote and enhance its members competitiveness, productivity, and profitability in the global market by minimizing regulatory, commercial, political, and trade restraints." These regulations and laws are used to find the chemicals that are banned in home textile, footwear, and apparel products all over the world. Before a designer buys from a wholesaler they should read what chemical were used in the products that are interested in buying. GOTS is used for defining the prohibited and restricted inputs used in all textile products. It is important to understand that non-fabric materials such as leather, skin, hide, or rubber are not included in this standard. Also, products can only be deemed organic as a whole item not parts of the design. As wonderful as all of these standards, rules, and protocols are it is difficult to have every spectrum of the design team on board. Producers, wholesalers, retailers, and consumers all have to make a conscious effort to use Cradle to Cradle methods. I did a little research because I was unsure of products I personally use that know of the Cradle to Cradle movement and if they can be mass produced like the blue jeans mentioned earlier. 

I found that twenty of Method cleaning products have earned the Cradle to Cradle (C2C) certification which is a step towards increasing C2C products to the consumer nationwide. C2C certification has been focused on insulation. carpeting, chairs, and whiteboards but nothing has been specific for customers. With the variety of dish soap, hand wash, and foaming hand wash Method is breaking into a market specifically aimed for the consumers. Since being founded in 2000 method has been selling home and personal cleaning products that focus on biodegradable and non-toxic ingredients. All of the materials inside the products are listed on the website and they list ingredients names and explain what they do in some cases. That way consumers are completely aware of what they are buying and how it directly affects the environment. They also have began to use money to help there suppliers invest in energy efficient equipment and on-site renewable energy systems. Just like the Swiss chemical company teamed up with the local textile factory. In order for these protocols to be used in all merchandise local businesses need to team up. The success stories come from businesses that cooperate with one another towards the same goal. Consumers are more likely to support a local owner than a faceless corporation, with publicity the C2C movement can be globally accepted. If waste equals food is used efficiently there will be no regulation between trading companies which will eliminate the cut throat low-priced, low-quality debacle mentioned in my previous blog. Also if there is no regulation the free trade will create equal opportunities for local designers to be more profitable and boost the crippling economy. Just like the consumer needs to be educated in there purchases so does the retailer and producer. If products are being created economically from the beginning consumers are more willing to purchase. They need to use tools like AFFA and GOTS or strive to be certified by the C2C foundation.

Blog 1 Reflection

After reading everyones blogs I have come to the conclusion that we all care about the environment but are unsure of where to start. Personally, I am passionate about the environment and sustainable products. Hopefully when I retire I will leave the my business and the world a better place. But I don't know what jobs are available for a college graduates that fit this description for designers. We are struggling to decide on a major and career, sustainability has never been a priority for production. The course material has been informative and given me some insight on the business aspect of sustainable products and organizations who strive for all companies to care about the environment and change.

Publicity is key in order for anything to be successful. I don't want "going green" to become another fad or written off in history. We must show our community that demanding sustainable and quality products is the only way to receive business. With our future course materials and discussions I want to learn more about businesses that demand sustainable production with fair trade laws. An idea is immortal but it takes people to put it into action. As we graduate from school we should take what we've learned in this course and adamantly fight for fair trade and sustainable production both internationally and locally.

Sacrificing Quality for Price

Picture yourself shopping with your closet friends at a local mall. There is a designer shirt that exemplifies your individualism. It has the embroidery design that is all over the runway and the lace accents that compliment everyone’s silhouette. Enthralled with its beauty you look at the price and it is $180.00! Aghast you quickly place the shirt back on the rack and leave the store before you blow an entire paycheck on one item. Never fear, because, while walking down the alley of stores you find that exact top at Forever 21. You swiftly walk into the dressing room and try on your dream item. It fits perfectly and is only $45.00. Thinking the price is a mistake you swiftly purchase the shirt; ecstatic at your own self-control for finding the best price and shopping genius. Going home later that day you decide to wash the shirt before wearing it for a date tonight. After the thirty-minute washing cycle you pull out the new favorite shirt. It is destroyed. The lace design has ripped, stitching in the embroidery came lose, and there is a mysterious hole in the side that was not there earlier. Infuriated you go back to forever 21 and demand a full refund for this terrible purchase. Unfortunately, they do not give refunds only store credit. Now you are shirtless and have credit to a store that you immediately regret walking into.

What happened to this shirt? Did you make a bad decision by shying away from the designer top and buying the discounted item? I am all for a good bargain and frequently price shop or hit the sales rack before browsing new inventory. But I feel that the United States has sacrificed quality items for the lowest price. The apparel industry is a cutthroat market that struggles for low prices while still maintaining high quality. Competition this fierce has been blamed on the plummeting costs and standards for clothes. Stores such as Forever 21 are known for there bargain prices and designer looks. But this company in particular has undergone over fifty lawsuits from disgruntled designers that claim to have had designs, fabric and clothing stolen. This article http://www.dailyfinance.com/2011/08/15/forever-21-angers-indie-designers-attracts-shoppers/ talks  talks about the most recent scandal relating to Forever 21.

High fashion markets such as Dolce and Gabbana have undergone extensive design branding from sunglasses to underwear in order to ensure product continuity throughout the fashion market. They have gone as far as inserting chips in the clothes that can be scanned to insure a true Dolce and Gabbana purchase. The purpose of designer items is there uniqueness and insured quality; you buy this merchandise knowing you will have it for years. Research has shown that customers do care about the quality of there clothes as well as how they are made. If there is a social pressure on brands to create quality products the retailers and brands that attain and publicize these improvements will have the competitive advantage. Customers get good products while businesses are successful, win-win right? Unfortunately, it is not that simple.

There are five major players in the life of a clothing item materials, production, retail, usage, and disposal. All of these factors have a say in the design, fabric, and price of every piece of clothing. The complex supply chains make it difficult to pinpoint a specific contributor to how to ensure quality for the t-shirt a consumer sees on a sales rack. I believe that raising awareness to why clothing is so cheap is key. There needs to be fair pay further down the supply chain, there is an illustration on page eight of Forum for the Future Fashioning Sustainability that shows the prices for production of an average t-shirt in the UK. Cotton yarn from USA 0.55 Euros, Fabric from China was 1.08 Euros, Knitted t-shirt from China 1.96 Euros, Wholesale from UK 2.65 Euros, and final Retail in the UK is 7.00 Euros. As you can see the majority of the production for this shirt was outside of the UK but they are receiving the highest profit, good for UK bad for China and USA. When was the last time you looked at a shirt or pair of pants and it said made in the USA? I implore you to find five items in your closet right now that were produced in the USA. Fair trade has to be a necessity when creating clothing, with the money being evenly distributed throughout the spectrum higher quality products will be more common.

  Blues Jeans is a perfect example for fair trade and quality products; this company only does business with ethical producers and is completely created in the States. No sweatshops or unfair labor has been used in the production of these jeans. In an interview with one of the owners she stated that it is extremely difficult to find upstanding traders in the fashion business. Everyone is looking to make the most profit and have forgotten about the quality of there products. There jeans are expensive but you can assure yourself that they were created ethically and with care. Along with using fair trade products, it is important to personalize merchandise. Tell the consumer where it was made, who created it, and how to best care for it will make the purchase more personal and have the consumer want to take better care of it. A store like 10,000 Villages is a perfect example of telling stories with their products. While shopping online you see a picture of the artists and tells there story as well as the materials used to create the merchandise you are about to buy. Everything is fair trade please look at there website http://www.tenthousandvillages.com/ it is an amazing store. If a store sells a quality product consumers will be loyal to them. According to a recent study consumers are willing to pay more for an ethically made and higher priced product. Quality insurance is what all consumers desire when making a purchase and being educated in the manufacturing and pricing of ethical products is key to success. If consumers demand ethical and quality products producers will have to comply. Every factor in the clothing industry needs to work together to improve the quality and ethical dilemma when designing clothes. That way everyone can enjoy fashion without damaging the quality of designer items. So the next time you go into a store be educated in their production and quality background. You may think twice on buying a knockoff.